The Insanity of the Economy

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Browsing BoingBoing today I saw this article. I clicked through and looked through the photos posted on the auction website. It’s worth a look. Here’s the story: wikipedia Chrysler’s Newark Assembly plant in Newark, Delaware built tanks between 1951 and 1957, and cars between 1957 and 2009, including LeBarons, Town and Countrys, and most recently Dodge Durangoes. The property and facility was bought by the University of Delaware for $24.25M, as it is adjacent to campus. They plan to re purpose the property for research and future expansion. The sale was made in October 2009, now they are auctioning all the industrial machinery, tooling and fixtures that made the plant run. $24.25 seems like really a pittance for such a facility- 3m sq. ft., chock full of everything needed to run a production car manufacturing operation.

The pictures really struck a chord with me. Usually when pictures are available of a closed factory, or other “urban relics”, they’re in rough shape- they’ve been looted and explored, the roof leaks, flaking paint and light filtered through broken windows illuminate scenes of decay and rust. Not here- this factory is fresh and clean. The pictures could have been taken over a holiday when the workers were at home, aside from the acres of empty stock shelves. And indeed- the emptiness is not due to flood or famine or disaster, but just the management deciding to close up. The employees cleaned up one night, and never came back. They’re still around- but not working here anymore.

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And equipment! What equipment! Mills, lathes, a Haas VMC and toolroom mill, stock racks and bandsaws, in the manual machine shop alone. All installed in a solid, spacious, well lit facility. Not to even mention any of the production facilities, or testing/QC areas. Auto lifts, toolboxes, spacious rooms with everything needed to do anything with cars.

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It’s hard to put my finger on what I’m trying to get at, because the screw-up represented here is so fundamental to the issues I see at play in the world here. Simply, it is insane that everything Chrysler built here is being taken apart and auctioned to the highest bidder. The “service economy” or “knowledge economy” that America has been and is still purposefully heading towards excludes manufacturing. And here we have a university taking over an American manufacturing facility and instantly liquidating everything they can, including facilities that could be used in industrial engineering education programs, and demolishing it, ready to build whatever fits their vision. Research space and future expansion. In order to crank out more B.A.s who don’t understand how the food gets on their table, and B.S.s who don’t know what to do with a wrench or drill.

Even if the plant was built to make cars and the car market has been pulled out from under it doesn’t mean that the established manufacturing facility it left behind is worth most as empty land for a university. Considering capitalism, a plant full of machines should have more earning potential, and should be worth more than a plot of land. And from a “doing what’s right for the world in the face of impending energy crisis that will destroy every foundation of American life” perspective, that plant should be building wind turbines, or electric motorcycles or electric cars or anything to prepare for a post-petro world, regardless of profitability. I would pack up and move to Delaware right now, plus give my right kidney for the chance at using 1/100 of that facility to work on things that I think are important for the future of the world. It really kills me to see this kind of an opportunity taken away. As well, America does not need everyone to go to university, many of the kids “served” by the University of Delaware would be better served by the opportunity to work in the trades, in a facility like the one that is currently being destroyed.

Here’s the list of items to be auctioned (189 6-axis robotic arms. Jeezus).

And here is a mirror of all the images on the auction page.

P.S. 50th post! Woo hoo!

The fragile fabric

Driving back to Albany from Santa Rosa on Sunday I witnessed a pretty gnarly car crash.

Basically- I noticed this aggressive driver in a black Passat with frat letters on the back when they passed me on the right. Drifting around in the lane, uneven acceleration. Decided to give them wide berth. As I followed directly behind them in the left lane, but with 2-300 yards distance I saw them brake suddenly, realized they had failed to slow down with traffic. They then swerved sharply into the right lane, where there was some space. It was a misty day, with moisture on the road but no standing water. The driver then lost control of the car, skidding side to side, then sliding into the embankment on the side of the road, probably at 50+ mph. The car rolled onto the roof. I pulled into the median and crossed the road, helped the driver out of the car through the rear driver side window. The driver’s side front corner of the car was crushed worst, although the airbags didn’t deploy, the driver was lucky not to get more hurt.

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After a couple minutes I realized the engine was still running, despite having lost all the oil, and being upside-down (obviously). I reached through the drivers window and steering wheel and moved the key out of the ignition position. The radio kept playing. Couldn’t shut the key off and remove it as the transmission was not in park. Before I shut it off the engine sounded like a diesel, and was beginning to smoke. It had lost all the oil when it first hit the embankment- the oil pan was shattered.

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I found it a bit impressive how well the car held up, for the safety of the driver and running upside down with no oil for a good little while.

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Despite having seen it unfold right in front of me I’m still not exactly sure what happened here. It was pretty shocking, unreal. Puts into perspective how the way we use cars and roads can quickly, in just an instant go from the disconnected, comfortable, predictable way we are familiar with into a real display of heavy objects in motion, subject to all the misunderstood, unprepared-for physical realities that aren’t a part of the road culture. Racing LeMons, even autocross is also a good way to get in touch with the car as a physical system- find the limits where surface predictability disappears. And cheaper and safer than flipping your car on the highway.

No one was badly hurt, only one car was totaled, but not only our distracted driver friend got a bit of a reality check seeing this crazy scene unfold.

Rabbit Diesel

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Something strikes me as pretty funny about the car in this picture. Probably because I expect the driving experience in a diesel rabbit has got to be pretty wretched. Hey- I’ve got nothing but respect for terrible econoboxes boldly proclaiming their worst attributes!

Bad Engineering and the Bay Bridge

Photo M. Macor/The Chronicle

Photo M. Macor/The Chronicle

On Bad Engineering

On Tuesday (10/27/09) I was driving back from Laney College up to my home in Albany. A ways in advance of where 880 splits off for (I guess) 80E and 80W (Bay Bridge) I realized we were merging out of the left lanes for the Bay Bridge- with flares and cones. No Caltrans trucks, flashing arrow signs, hundreds of cones, just a smattering of flares and dingy cones. And then headlights, coming toward me out of those lanes- wait?? huh? They had apparently rerouted traffic “out the in ramp”. I’m still not sure exactly how it worked- but by the time we got to the Y it was quite clear that something funny was going on with the bridge. Then over the flyover I could see the “parking lot” in the toll plaza everyone has been talking about.

Continue reading ‘Bad Engineering and the Bay Bridge’

DIY Autocross Magnetic Car Numbers

What do you need if you are going to an autocross event with a racecar that has one number on the side, but you are going to be running two drivers? Well, you need another detachable number! What about if that racecar has beautiful but easily-lifted purple and yellow house paint on it? Well, you need a magnetic number then. Clearly. Ah, but what if that autocross is two days away, and you’re really cheap? Sounds like you’re going to be making your own magnetic car number! But don’t worry, it’s really easy. Check it out:

First, get yourself a pack of these “TWIN DRAFT GUARD” (AS SEEN ON TV) “MAGNETIC VENT COVERS” from your local Bed Bath and Beyond – maybe walmart or target carries this or something similar as well-

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They’re not very strongly magnetic, but I tested it on the freeway, didn’t go anywhere. And cheap! $9.99 for 3. Good enough.

Next, draw some numbers on them with a fat permanent marker- I decided on 1, so we can be 15, 51, or 5 using the 5 painted on the car. Drawing a 6 would give you the most versatility, as you can just flip it over and it will become a 9- tricky! UPDATE: I just thought of something else- even better. Since the package of magnets includes three sheets, cut one in half and make 1’s, then make 6/9s on the other two- then for $10 bucks you’ve got 1, 9, 6, 16, 19, 61, 91… seven unique number possibilities! That’s quite a bargain!

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Simple as that! Indeed, they stick to cars! That is, as long as you don’t have a Saturn, or DeLorean, or Corvette, or……

But If you have one of those your paint will probably survive some masking tape.

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The vaunted 1(doorhandle)1 Camry Race Wagon

Skateboard Nearing A Good Place

DSCN3400In order to get the Skateboard (Facebreaker) a little less rough I’ve worked on a few things over the last couple weeks. Build process previously documented here and here.

Painted the frame to keep it from continuing to rust, and for STYLE, obviously.

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Added these 1/16″ thick HDPE strips to the middle bottom of the frame to reduce metal scraping when it bottoms out over curbs and stuff (long wheelbase, low clearance, it happens)

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Cut out and attached a full-size solid deck out of this crappy shipping-crate plywood

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DSCN3399Then stained it to reduce the show-uppiness of shoe marks, to the state in the first picture. I also reworked some of the component mounting strategy, extended and tidied the potbox-controller wire and adjusted the potbox lever. I have ordered a 4QD VTX40-24 controller to replace the Curtis 1208C, for the sake of being able to adjust the acceleration/deceleration ramp rates. Unfortunately that controller will not drop right in with the potbox setup, so I will have to set something up to make it work. I would like some sort of neat-o pistol grip style controller but I’ll probably just slap something together for now.

I have largely realized the concept I started out with. Pretty nicely indeed, if I say so myself.

The question I’m thinking about now is really where I need to take the concept- I don’t think what it is now is really there. I need to pick a direction for the project, and see if I can get something that really makes sense. In short, I don’t really like riding this thing. Sure, I’ve probably only put in maybe 20 minutes of “board time”, and I’m not a skateboarder by nature or history, but for me the design doesn’t really feel quite “there” or “right”.

This line of thinking can be expanded to address the state of “stand-up” personal vehicles in general.

  • Scooters
  • Skateboards
  • Self-balancing 2-wheel Scooters (Segway-style)

Both Segways and Scooters have handlebars. Segways go 12mph, (non-seated) Scooters usually top out around 10-30mph, some of the electric skateboards on the market can hit speeds above 20. My machine doesn’t manage more than a tepid 6-8mph (estimated, limited by the voltage and gearing of wheelchair transaxle). Fast jogging speed. It steers like a skateboard but has a form-factor unlike any electric skateboard I am aware of. It’s taller, longer, wider. I think it could feel secure and stable at 15-25 mph. Not sure if I’ll be able to test that assertion with this motor transaxle I’m running now. It’s got more than enough power but is geared wrong. I really can’t put any bigger wheels on it.

Benefits of stand-up vehicles:

  • Can be awesome
  • Good visibility in traffic
  • Hop-on, Hop-0ffness
  • Generally reasonably compact, efficient nature

Downsides of stand-up vehicles

  • High likelihood of falling on your ass
  • Practically limited top speed

I don’t think you can safely go much faster than 25 or 30 mph on something without Butt-Support. The Segway is freaky enough at 12, not to mention the ever present “if this thing pukes I am going to be on my ass, hard” factor.

Despite the issues with this prototype, and stand-up vehicles in general, my concept has some things going for it.

  • Big pneumatic wheels soak up little bumps pretty well
  • Big enough deck for two people (untested, I won’t be the one testing it), or stuff
  • Massive undercarriage- you could put enough battery to go 40-80 miles on a charge in it, easily

That’s assuming you are comfortable enough riding it to want to go 80 miles on it. So far, for me, I don’t think that’s so much the case. It’s a pretty good ankle/knee workout.

The other big benefit of my concept in its scale/implementation is its nearly boundless versatility with permutations of design. Some big possibilities that have come up:

  • Put toe hooks/clips onboard for better steering and stability leverage- this was independantly suggested by two skateboard afficianados who rode it.
  • Put a handlebar on the (non-tiling) axle assembly- would take much of the trickiness and uncertainty out of riding it.
  • Put a bucket seat on it. Particularly if you had your hands free I think you could generate plenty of tilting force to ride it sitting down

I’ve got an idea for a more elegant, reliable and adjustable axle-pivot/damper setup, and indeed it would be a good idea to get a powertrain setup that allows for more speed. These transaxle motors are built sturdily, and could be run over-volt, maybe even double voltage at the expense of brush life. I don’t think the windings themselves are at great risk of frying given the light weight of the vehicle. I haven’t monitored the cruising current draw of my motor at 24v, I suspect it is quite low.

I don’t envision trying to produce these things, or have them built. I think that I may just work on a second prototype to develop the things I just mentioned, then I might just make documentation and plans available. That would suit the flexibility of this design well, so that anyone can build it the way they would like it.

So- there is still potential and promise here, as well as a few issues keeping me from hopping on and cruising around town more. I’m still scared of the super-quick accel/decel from the current motor controller after getting pitched off of it. I’m still just not comfortable with the stability of the board (I think that’s more my problem rather than an issue with the machine). The top speed is boring. Also, while in some road situations it’s clear where to ride a thing like this, be it the bike lane, or in the street- on other streets it’s a bit more difficult to work out. I’m not sure how a vehicle like this is supposed to be allowed or prohibited. It’s too wide and slow to really play that nicely on bike paths or sidewalks, it shouldn’t be duking it out with cars on bigger roads though.

Indeed, my most imminent job is just to get it out and ride it more. I tend to avoid opportunities to hurt myself. Suppose that’s why this is not really such a good project for me… but I’m this far into it already, right?

If you are in the bay area and are interested in riding this thing and telling me what you think I would appreciate your input. Drop me a line.

The Electric Mega-Skate-Board AKA “Facebreaker” Rides

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If you didn’t see it, take a look at the previous skateboard post for an idea what this is all about- For now I’ll let the pictures tell the story:

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Since the last post I finished welding up the frame, made a front axle on the lathe, acquired batteries and wired up the controls, assembled all the parts, and designed and implemented a return-to-center damper system.

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The batteries can be seen on each end of the frame with the motor controller (beige) and charger (black) in the center. The deck is an old kitchen cabinet shelf out of the house my folks are currently renovating.

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The “potbox” hand controller. One way on the black levers is forward, the other reverse. The E-Stop button cuts power and shorts the motor leads, slowing the vehicle down very fast.

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The return-to-center damping action (provided in a skateboard truck by a doughnut-shaped rubber bushing) is here accomplished through the unconventional use of two rubber exhaust bushings, these were sourced on eBay, and are apparently designed for use with some models of Land Rover. I’m not sure how well they’ll last but at present they are very effective, they have about the right amount of resistance and are smooth through the entire travel. They are only placed on the rear axle presently, to double the resistance another set could be placed on the front axle.

So, how does it ride? Really nicely, in fact! The biggest problems right now are with the non-intuitiveness of the throttle control, and the excessive aggressiveness of the acceleration and deceleration ramps programmed into the Curtis 1208C controller that is in use. I was showing it to a few people at school, in a bit of a rush and hastily popped the throttle and was thrown right off the back of it as it lurched forward, fell on my wrist and sprained it pretty good. The steering and balancing action however is quite nice. A skateboarder at school gave it a test drive, he picked it up instantly with no hesitation and said it was really awesome. So there’s potential. I need to make sure I can’t adjust the accel/decel ramp on the 1208, if not I may shop for an adjustable controller (4QD VTX-40 maybe, something from Kelly maybe).

I made this video last weekend before the exhaust hangers arrived- My friends and I just bungee-corded some places on the frame and gave it a try.

My dad rolls it his own way:

Long Overdue: EV Miata First Start Video

If you watch the site you will know that I have gotten the electric car registered, driven it in a parade, and that it is entirely functional. But before all that, I had to power it up for the first time ever. That day, I invited friends over and we took video, which is now, finally edited. Enjoy.

Click through for the HD version

The Rise of Banzai Lemon

IMG_8756IMG_8749IMG_8754IMG_8750Laying out the slices

DSCN3356The “IKEA” phase

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The AftermathDSCN3374The paint is Home Depot’s cheapest high gloss interior/exterior, applied by foam roller. It looks really fantastic. Now- for the rest of the theme…

Station Wagon Solar Roof and Solar Sub- Self Sufficient Sonic Splendor

Toyota has been advertising the “Solar Roof” option for the new 2010 Prius- it’s basically a solar module integrated into the roof panel that runs the cabin ventilation fan on hot and sunny days. Simple enough- but what they didn’t tell you is that you can have a solar roof on any car- obviously!

IMG_8273I set this system up for my Northwest roadtrip, as previously described. It worked like a charm, supplying me with laptop charge and ample stereo bass all 2300 miles of my trip. What’s this about subs and bass exactly?

IMG_8687One of the prime objectives of the system was to power up my subwoofer system- because what’s a roadtrip without a subwoofer? You may be thinking to yourself, WTF? So let’s get this straight. I mounted an 80watt polycrystaline PV panel to the roof of my station wagon. I ran the power to a charge controller and 90AH SLA battery pack behind the drivers seat. And with the resulting charge I ran a small inverter and a subwoofer amplifier.

'90s Japanese midsize wagons aplenty

'90s Japanese midsize wagons aplenty

Simple enough- and in all seriousness, it worked really well. Here’s the details:

The module is an 80 watt Photowatt module I purchased several years ago and borrowed from my roof.

IMG_8695It’s anchored to the Camry’s factory-installed roof rails by way of 2×2 lumber, U bolts and plastic tube

IMG_8696Note to self- beware that the distance between the rails on the Camry gets bigger toward the front of the car!

12GA landscape-lighting cable is run in through the rear hatch- I’ve found that landscape lighting cable is widely avaiable and not too expensive, as well as water and sunlight resistant.

IMG_8697IMG_8699The cable is run forward to the driver side rear footwell

IMG_8698From there, the charge controller and batteries are hooked up, as well as the loads.IMG_8276I used the parts I had on hand- 2x  tired old PowerSonic batteries, a BZ Products M20 charge controller. The terminals are insulated with tape, I neglected to add fuses aside from the charge controller’s internal fuses- not a good idea, but I was lucky and was spared any disasters during my trip.

A small mod-sine inverter was sufficient to charge my laptop while I was camping. I made its leads long enough to move around the front seat area.

IMG_8688I put the sub amp under the passenger seat

IMG_8691And used this sweet pushbutton I scavenged from an old junked BMW to activate the amp

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There you have it- for two weeks this system kept me supplied with charging power and sweet tunes. It was a no-brainer project for me since I already had all the equipment, but I could see something like this being very worthwile for the avid car-camper. It’s like how many RV people put up solar panels- why should they have all the fun?

If you’re interested in putting something like this together, there are a million different ways you could go about it- roof racks, solar panels, charge controllers, batteries- but here are some ideas of where to start.

PV Panels:

  • Something like these is likely one of the easiest options- I have on occasion seen other panels of this sort for sale, all in one chargers with built in charge control. Not the most cost effective though.
  • Traditional-style PV panels can be purchased from many dealers- this is one of my favorites. Chose a panel for output and dimensions.
  • For permanent installation, particularly on lower-roofline vehicles like my Wagon (as opposed to a van) a glass-less panel may be a good investment to avoid the worry of vandalism or accidental breakage. Unfortunately the best choice, larger Uni-Solar modules appear to have been discontinued and are very hard to find.

Charge Controller

  • If you found a panel with integrated charge control, you’re good to go. Similarly, if you’re using a tiny <10watt panel you are also OK- otherwise you’ll need a charge controller to keep your battery pack from getting roasted.
  • A controller like this one will be suitable for panels up to around 80 watts. It also includes an LVD output that you can use to power small loads while protecting the battery from being entirely drained.
  • This one can make for a very tidy installation as it mounts directly on the panel’s junction box- just beware that some small panels don’t use J-boxes.
  • There are many other options. These cited in particular are just my recommendations.

Battery pack

  • In order to use a battery in your car you really must use a sealed lead battery as opposed to a flooded one typically available at autopart and warehouse stores. Unfortunately these are much more expensive and pickier, but you don’t want to risk the explosive fumes collecting in your closed car that result from charging a flooded battery, as well as the danger of liquid sulfuric acid.
  • You can check out Northern Arizona Wind and Sun’s selection here, or shop around. It can be worthwile to shop locally as battery shipping is often expensive due to their weight. 60+ Amp Hours will give you the best flexibility.
  • Something like this is a nice option but quite expensive.

Make sure all your wires are appropriately sized (12GA min, 10 or 8GA OK) and that you use ample fusing. For systems this small an inline ATC fuseholder is generally sufficient. “Car Stereo” style fuseholders are also a good option, also easy to find locally and with higher current capacity. There is some benefit to using a fuse block, but this is one of the areas where it is easy to quickly stray from the KISS (keep it simple stupid) ideal of the project.

If you crimp terminals crimp them tight- you should be able to break the wire before it comes out of the crimp. Landscape lighting wire and ATC fuseholders/fuses can be found at your local hardware store. It’s no problem to attach an inverter to the system, or a cigarette lighter receptacle (auto parts store) for other types of chargers. A 30 amp system fuse will support a 350 watt load.

Hope you find this interesting or inspiring. I sure appreciated my purely solar powered sub tones all the way up and down the West Coast.